PUPPY TRAINING
Training your puppy is crucial to ensuring they grow into a well-behaved and happy companion. Early training helps establish good habits, strengthens the bong between you and your puppy, and sets the foundation for a lifetime of positive behavior. I'm here to support and am committed to helping you and your new puppy succeed every step of the way. I'm always just a call or message away to assist with any questions or challenges you may face.
TRAINING MARKER (clicker)
Click and then feed within half second
Very critical that the marker comes first and then the food
If you have trouble coordinating things, put the food behind your back
MANDING (sitting upon approach and not jumping)
Sit on the floor with the puppy
They will instinctively want to jump on you.
Remain impassive and wait until they back off and sit, click and treat
Do not add a verbal cue- the human is the cue
AUTO-SIT
When you approach puppy in his pen
Feed/pay attention if he is sitting ask all guests to participate.
At first, just reinforce paws on the ground
Once they have that, just wait for a sit.
Don’t ask puppies to sit, wait for them to do it on their own
When puppy has this down add a distraction (multiple people, another dog etc)
Start with the distraction stationary and several feet away
Move as far away as you have to, so puppies can concentrate
Gradually have distraction move closer but remain stationary
Move further away again and begin moving
Again, move as far away as you have to, so the puppies remain calm
Work your way closer
LEASH WALKING
Start walking in a small counterclockwise circle with the puppy on the inside
When he’s within 5 feet of your left side click and treat
Gradually wait until he’s closer and closer to your left side before you click and treat
Once he’s clearly running to your left side, take 2 steps before you click and treat
Wait for 3 steps.
Then work your way up to 3-5 steps
Put a collar on the puppy and have him walk by you again clicking and treating
Attach the leash, click and treat
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If the puppy pulls or fights the leash:
Let the leash slide through your fingers
Drop the leash if necessary
Keep moving forward
Click and treat when puppy starts following
Keep sessions to no more than 1-2 minutes
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The goal for a puppy younger than 12 weeks is 10-15 steps on leash
DOG ON DOG SOCIALIZATION
Give space
Give the puppy a place where they can escape to
Have puppy off leash
Don’t force or lure puppy to another dog
Let puppy take it at their own pace
Puppy should never be terrified
Don’t pay attention to reluctant puppy instead interact with the other dog
SOCIALIZATION WITH HUMANS
Have a wide variety of people meet your puppy
Men, women, deep/shrill voices, tall/short, thin/thick, different races and ethnicities, all ages, hats/boots/glasses/heels etc, canes/walkers etc.
RESOURCE GUARDING
Food dish:
(do each step until puppy gives a positive response)
Step 1- add food to dish while puppy is eating
Step 2- exchange dish, take dish away while puppy is eating and give treat
Objects:
Give the puppy a meaty bone and allow him/her 10 mins with it
Take the bone away and exchange for a treat
Give the bone back
Repeat with a variety of toys and chew objects
Locations:
Approach the puppy when he’s comfortably resting in his bed or crate
Move him/her off the location
Give the puppy a treat
Lap Guarding:
Approach puppy while in owner’s lap or arms
Pat puppy and give a treat
BITING
Interactions with the puppy should be calm and structured
Use a toy to play with your puppy, never your hands
If the puppy bites, pick him/her up and point the biting parts away
Keep re-gripping and massaging the puppy
Offer the puppy a toy or chew object
Walking with the puppy
If he bites, stop moving. Motion is a big trigger
Always carry food and reinforce walking next to you without biting
If he wont stop, pick him up and point his teeth away from you
Break out the food and train, or if you’re too busy to train, put the puppy away
Puppies biting children
Behavioral loop, puppy bites and children scream (excites puppy) so bites again
Teach child to interact calmly with the puppy
If a child is too young to understand, manage the puppy
Feed puppy and train calm behaviors while kids are running around
Put puppy away if you don’t have time to train
It only takes a month or two for the puppy to outgrow biting if you are diligent with the training!
POTTY TRAINING
Foresee when puppy will need to go and take him out before then
10 mins after the start of play session
15 mins after eating
Immediately upon waking up
Abrupt cessation in activity or starting to sniff
Going to the door, even just walking by
At least once an hour no matter what
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When you can’t watch your puppy, put him in a puppy pen (exercise pen with crate and potty area)
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Getting mad at the puppy for having an accident will only teach the puppy to hide from you when he goes.
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Simply watch for the cues and praise puppy when he goes outside.
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Have a bell by the door and teach the puppy to ring it when he wants to go out.
Start by hitting the bell with the puppy’s paw or nose before taking him out.
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**Puppies can't control their bladder until they are about 16 weeks old. After that, in general they can only hold their bladder for the same number of hours as the number of months of their age plus one.**
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I recommend a weaning pen for puppies to sleep and be in while nobody is able to watch them closely.
Your weaning pen should consist of an open crate, potty area (I tape a puppy/hospital pad down and put recycled paper dog litter on top for extra absorption and easy cleanup.), fencing, and eating area. I like to use the cheapest linoleum I can find at Home Depot/Lowes to protect the actual floor from water or other spills and messes.
Here is a picture of one of our weaning pens for our puppies. This was our simple weaning pen for the hotel room.
I taped a puppy pad to a muddy shoe holder tray and put puppy litter on top.
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​ The dog litter I prefer, but others work as well.
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SLEEP
Puppy should sleep in puppy pen
Withhold food for 3 hours before bedtime
Withhold water for 1 hour before bedtime
Take puppy out and make sure he at least pees
Leave crate door open
When puppy goes 4 or 5 hours at night without using the potty:
Close the door to the crate
Set an alarm to wake up in no more than 5 hours
Most puppies will be reliable by 5 months old, although some will not be until a year
This is a physiological development issue
Punishment will only slow down the process
The only thing you can really do is take the puppy out more often
BODY HANDLING
Make sure to touch ears, tails, toes, lips, teeth every day
Squeeze paws and hug/restrain puppies
Exchange body handling for a treat (hide treats so he doesn’t get frustrated)
RECALL
Recall word should be high pitched and staccato “come”
Give the dog something great, every time (treat)
Recall word needs to be said the same way every time said in a way you don’t normally talk
Their name is not a recall word
Never call your dog to you and then do something unpleasant, such as clip nails, clean ears or something they don’t like, go to them when you need something unpleasant done
CRATE TRAINING
Let him/her get used to it before you shut the door
Withhold food 3 hrs, water 1 hour before crate, take potty before closing crate
Closing puppy in crate:
Place puppy in crate with meaty bone
Close the door, make sure puppy is engaged in chewing, and leave puppy for just a few seconds
Return and let him out BEFORE he starts fussing
Remember to do a treat exchange for the bone
Gradually work up to longer and longer periods
FINDING A GOOD PUPPY TRAINER
No aversives: clapping, yelling, spray bottle, hitting
No special training equipment: No prong, choke or shock collars No “stopping” behaviors
No verbal/physical corrections: Kneeing puppy, grabbing snout or pressing tongue, clapping or “eh-eh”
Instructors should show how to build behaviors, not punish for bad behavior
Ideal class plan: settle/train/play/train/play/settle
Puppies need a way to escape if they need a break and should not be forced out.
REWARD VS. PUNISHMENT TRAINING
When you use rewards in training dopamine is released strengthening the bond between you and your puppy. When punishing your dog for a behavior such as yelling, hitting, leash corrections etc. the dog will learn to fear you and retain that fear in your presence at all times. Punishment techniques can bring on an aggressive response and cause aggression problems that weren’t there to begin with.
SOUND SENSITIVITY, RESPONSE AND RECOVERY
Continue introducing your puppy to new sounds beginning at 9 weeks after the fear period has ended and they are more comfortable with their new home.
Start with the noise being soft and short lived and gradually work up to loud and longer sounds. This will help your puppy’s startle response and recovery.
Sounds to introduce include: fireworks, fire alarm, beeping, thunder etc.
Also, dropping a pan, clapping randomly also aids in this
REMEMBER TO LET YOUR PUPPY REST AFTER TRAINING!
Even if they seem to not get it at all, a little rest can do a lot of good!
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GROOMING
Grooming is an essential part of caring for our Golden Doodles. While all dogs need regular grooming to keep their coats clean and free from dirt, the Golden Doodle requires more grooming than some other breeds that naturally rid their coat through shedding.
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Start a routine early. Try simply finger-combing as the very first step. Handle or gently massage puppy paws daily.
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Make sure you brush your dog before bathing it. I recommend a metal comb and a slicker brush.
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Bathing should be limited so as to not dry out the dog’s coat and skin.
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Use dog shampoo (no human shampoo), avoid getting shampoo in your dog’s eyes, and keep water out of your dog’s ears.
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Dog’s nails need to be trimmed regularly. (This is where daily paw handling proves to be extremely beneficial.) Make sure not to cut too short and hit the quick!
​Regular teeth brushing is very important to keep oral hygiene in check. Make sure to use dog toothpaste and never use toothpaste made for humans!
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Keeping sanitary areas nice and trim will greatly help with the overall hygiene of the dog!


